How to Spend a Weekend in Dali: A Local’s Guide to Erhai Lake and the Old Town

You’ve got two days in Dali, and you’re wondering if that’s enough to see the highlights without feeling rushed. The short answer is yes—if you focus on two things: the old town and the eastern shore of Erhai Lake. I’ve helped plenty of travelers plan this exact trip, and the key is deciding what kind of pace you want. Do you prefer cycling along the lake at sunrise, or would you rather spend your time sipping coffee in a courtyard and watching Bai women do tie-dye? Both are doable. Here’s how to structure it.

Why Dali Is Different from Other Yunnan Stops

Most people come to Yunnan for Lijiang’s canals or Shangri-La’s monasteries, but Dali has its own pull. It’s the historic heart of the Bai ethnic group, and the old town still keeps a relaxed, lived-in feel that Lijiang lost to souvenir shops years ago. The backdrop helps: Cangshan Mountain rises sharply behind the town, and Erhai Lake stretches out to the east like a silver mirror. For many visitors, Dali is the place where they finally slow down.

That’s not to say it’s sleepy. The old town is full of guesthouses, craft shops, and restaurants that cater to a mix of Chinese domestic tourists and a smaller number of internationals. But you can still find quiet corners—a lane with a stone bridge, a temple courtyard with old camellia trees—if you know where to look.

Getting to Dali and Getting Around

Dali has its own airport, about 30 minutes from the old town by taxi, with direct flights from Kunming, Chengdu, and a few other cities. If you’re already in Kunming, the high-speed train is a better bet. It takes about two hours from Kunming South Station to Dali Station, and tickets cost around 145 yuan for a second-class seat. From Dali Station, you can grab a taxi or a shared minibus to the old town—about 20 minutes, roughly 30 yuan.

Once you’re in the old town, walking is your best friend. The main pedestrian street, Fuxing Road, runs from the south gate to the north gate, and most sights are within a 15-minute walk. If you want to explore the lake shore, you can rent a bicycle or an electric scooter from shops near the east gate. Prices start around 30 yuan for a day, and you’ll often need to leave a deposit or your passport as collateral—worth checking before you hand it over.

Day 1: Old Town Sights and Bai Culture

Start your first morning at the South Gate, which is the most photographed entrance to the old town. Climb the tower for a view over the grey-tiled roofs toward the lake. Then wander north along Fuxing Road, dipping into the side lanes. The old town’s grid layout dates back to the Ming dynasty, and you’ll see Bai-style architecture with whitewashed walls, grey brick, and painted panels on the eaves.

One of my favorite stops is the Dali Foreigner Street, which sounds touristy but actually has a good mix of cafes and small galleries. If you’re interested in crafts, head to the tie-dye shops near the north gate. Many are run by Bai women from nearby Zhoucheng village, and some will let you try a simple pattern for a small fee. It’s a hands-on way to connect with local culture, and you’ll come away with a souvenir you made yourself.

Day 2: Erhai Lake and the Eastern Shore

On your second day, get an early start and head to the lake. The most scenic route is along the eastern shore, where the road hugs the water and you get uninterrupted views of Cangshan across the lake. You can rent a car with a driver for the day—expect to pay around 400 to 500 yuan—or join a small group tour that stops at the main viewpoints. If you’re comfortable on two wheels, cycling the eastern shore is the classic Dali experience, but it’s about 50 kilometers one way, so plan for a full day or just do a shorter section.

The key stops along the eastern shore are Xizhou, a town famous for its well-preserved Bai courtyard houses; Shuanglang, a village that’s become known for its waterfront guesthouses and photo spots; and the small fishing village of Wase, which is quieter and less developed. If you only have time for one, I’d pick Xizhou. It’s less crowded than Shuanglang, and you can visit the old market and a few courtyards that have been converted into museums or tea houses.

If you’re not up for a full day of cycling, consider taking a boat trip on Erhai Lake. Several piers offer short cruises that last an hour or two, and they give you a different perspective on the lake and the mountains. The boats are usually not too crowded on weekdays, and you might spot cormorant fishermen—though most of those displays are staged for tourists these days.

Where to Stay in Dali

Your choice of accommodation really depends on your style. If you want to be in the middle of the action, stay inside the old town. Guesthouses range from budget hostels with dorm beds to boutique hotels in restored courtyards. For a quieter stay, look for a place near the south gate or just outside the walls—you’ll get more space and often a better view, and it’s still an easy walk to the main sights.

If you prefer lake views, base yourself in Shuanglang or another village on the eastern shore. That’s a better choice if you have three or more days, because you can split your time between the old town and the lake. But for a weekend, staying in the old town is more convenient—you won’t waste time commuting, and you can step out for evening snacks without planning a ride back.

What to Eat in Dali

Dali’s food is a mix of Bai specialties and broader Yunnan flavors. The most famous local dish is chenggan, a kind of dried tofu that’s often served cold with chili oil. You’ll also see rushan, a grilled cheese made from cow’s milk that’s sometimes wrapped around a sweet filling. For a full meal, try suanla yu, a sour and spicy fish soup that’s a Bai staple.

If you’re not sure what to order, look for a restaurant that has a picture menu or ask for a recommendation. Most places in the old town have English menus, and the staff are used to foreign visitors. For a quick snack, grab a bowl of mixian (rice noodles) from a street stall—it’s cheap, filling, and you’ll see locals eating it at all hours.

Practical Tips for Your Dali Visit

A few things to keep in mind. First, Dali sits at about 1,975 meters above sea level. Most people don’t feel it, but if you’re coming from low altitude, take it easy on your first day and drink plenty of water. Sunscreen is a must—the sun is strong at this elevation, even in winter.

Second, the weather can change quickly. Even in summer, a sudden rain shower isn’t unusual, so pack a light rain jacket. In winter, the days are mild but the nights drop close to freezing, so bring layers if you’re visiting between November and February.

Third, payment. Most places in Dali accept mobile payment apps like WeChat Pay and Alipay, but international credit cards are not widely accepted. If you don’t have a Chinese bank account, you can usually pay with cash at smaller shops and restaurants, but it’s a good idea to carry enough for the day. Some ATMs in the old town accept foreign cards, but they can be unreliable—worth testing early in your trip.

How COME Can Help You Plan Your Dali Trip

Planning a trip to Dali—or anywhere else in China—takes time, especially if it’s your first visit. COME (Come to China) offers trip planning services that can help you figure out the logistics, whether that’s booking trains, arranging a local guide, or just getting answers to your questions in English. We can also provide a translator if you need help communicating with local hosts or vendors. It’s not about over-planning; it’s about making sure you don’t miss the details that matter.

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